Rosie Scott Blog about Women

Highlights from London Fashion Week, Part 1.

1. Party Like It’s the 1980s

The ’70s have dominated the runways in such an all-encompassing fashion that, upon seeing a metallic shirtdress with a geometric belt come down the catwalk Saturday in London, it took a second for the eyes to adjust. Then came a splatter-paint jacket paired with wide-whale corduroys. J.W. Anderson thrust the ’80s back to the collective consciousness. “When looking at that period, I think we have a stigma towards it,” Mr. Anderson said after the show. “It was playing with the idea that some genius fashion came out of that.” Mr. Anderson said his muse was a party girl, an especially rich source of fodder for the fashion set this season.

2. Waiting to Exhale

Runways are often filled with over-the-top pieces that will never be produced and sold. They are meant to appeal to the editorial crowd, on the lookout for fashion that will make for interesting photographs. But there are also welcome sartorial palate cleansers, the shows with wearable clothes that aren’t overwrought. Margaret Howell served up just that Sunday, as only she can. Easy, menswear-inspired separates looked relaxed and confident, with an almost academic feel to them thanks to tweeds and wools. The proportions were spot on: The bottoms, including the shorts and trousers, were wide-legged and cuffed. The models walked at a measured pace, set to the tune of “Put A Little Love In Your Heart” by Jackie DeShannon. It was the fashion version of a deep exhale.

3. Walking the Runway for Two

You had to look very closely at two of the models walking the Temperley London catwalk Sunday to notice a slight roundness in their midsection. But backstage, after Jacquetta Wheeler and Caroline Winberg shed the overcoat and blazer worn as part of their respective looks, it was much more obvious: Both women are pregnant. “They’re beautiful and they’re friends and they are models. Why not show them when they’re pregnant?” designer Alice Temperley said after her show. Ms. Temperley, who put together a collection that show notes said was meant to be “effortless and confident,” was particularly pleased with how a bronze sequin gown looked on Ms. Wheeler. “The brilliant thing about that evening dress is it just looked so good on the bump,” she said.

4. Fall Flower Power

With spring around the corner, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi’s runway show Sunday filled with floral silk dresses felt quite timely. Nevermind that this is a fall collection. “We have a lot of customers in countries that never get cold,” Justin Thornton said backstage after the show. And for those who do? “You wear thick tights and a sweater.” That mashup of vibes was a key theme to this show, with its theme of “Dark Romance,” taking inspiration from Sonic Youth and Karen Carpenter. Heavy use of a black base with the florals gave the pieces a toughness, as did the mixing in of checkered fabrics. Of his customers, Mr. Thornton said, “They really like the way there’s a depth to things.”

5. Spotlight on the Sidelines

Pass by any newsstand and you will surely notice we’re in a major model moment. So Topshop made a smart move keeping the biggest models at its Sunday show off the runway, instead seating them in the front row. Kendall Jenner, Jourdan Dunn and Cara Delevingne were perched alongside Sir Philip Green, chairman of Topshop’s parent company. Having them situated there provided ample opportunities for photographs, as well as a chance for the girls to show off a bit their personalities. Ms. Delevingne, in particular, seemed game to chat and sing along to the show’s soundtrack. The crush of photographers and the fans screaming for selfies as the trio left the venue cemented their star status.