Rosie Scott Blog about Women

Alessandro Sartori knows more than a little about. After Antoine Arnault ’s appointment as CEO of Berluti some four years ago, his first move was to bring Mr. Sartori over from Z Zegna as artistic director. The new hire’s brief: to expand the brand, known for its exceedingly luxurious men’s leather goods, into ready-to-wear clothing. Today, as Berluti celebrates its 120th anniversary, Mr. Sartori, 48, believes he has succeeded. “Berluti has a different take on menswear; we think much more like women’s couture,” he said, noting that all production—from the new trainers assembled using a single piece of leather, to the woven linen outerwear—takes place in-house. “For spring, I wanted to keep the craft as pure as possible while going deeper into the material technology, and applying this to a modern, sharp silhouette.”

Though the men who favor his designs—and can afford them—tend to be a rarefied, highly affluent bunch, they’re surprisingly diverse, said Mr. Sartori, who was born in Biella, Italy, and calls Paris home. “The customer profile is very nice because they are not a specific age,” he explained. “They are strong characters who like to play with their style and don’t want to dress cliché.” Recently, while driving back to Milan after meeting with artisans in the Berluti workshop in Ferrara, Mr. Sartori talked to us on the phone (hands-free) about his resistance to the Apple Watch and what constitutes a respectable shoe wardrobe.

As I teenager, I dressed: mainly according to the trends. But around age 15, I became crazy about suits and classic things. I looked a bit out of the group, but it was very chic.

My favorite Paris restaurant is: Chez André. I like the cold lentil salad, which is just so French; and then a fish. I love to go there alone because it has zero to do with fashion.

I keep a record of my life with: Moleskine notebooks, the large ones. I have dozens filled with writing, photos, fabrics, sketches. Looking at an old page is like listening to a song that has a special memory. A sketch with three words will bring back an emotion.

I like photographing: abandoned buildings. They look so decadent and chic. I use a Leica T.

One thing I won’t be wearing this spring is: the Apple Watch: Don’t get me wrong, I have a lot of Apple devices. But I’m too much into old watches. I have a Cartier watch from the ’70s and another belonging to my father.

The main sartorial difference between French and Italian men is: that Italians follow specific rules, focusing on the perfect blue blazer perhaps, and the French are more individual.

My first choice for flowers is: calla lilies. Normally, I go with the dark ones—they’re an inky purple. When I see them on my table, I smile a little.

The minimum number of shoes a man should own is: 10, between winter and summer, between boots, loafers, sneakers, evening shoes. Me, I have a crazy number—around 100 pairs.

The proper way to thank someone is: a note written by hand. To me, that’s special. And I write spontaneously—not too thought out. Maybe it will just be the person’s name and three words I feel in the moment.

My favorite obscure museums in Paris are: the Musée de la Vie Romantique, the Musée Delacroix and the Musée Gustave Moreau. When you go to these museums alone, you feel the emotion. When you go with someone, it becomes something different.

When I wake up: I sometimes wait until there’s a five on the clock before getting out of bed—6:55 or 7:05 instead of 7. Five has always been a good number for me. Maybe I’m superstitious.

My favorite film directors include: the Coen brothers because they offer a very real yet radical version of reality; and a Franco-Algerian named Nadir Moknèche. I’d describe him as the Arabic Almodóvar.

I collect: jackets. I have a big archive of nearly 200 blazers, jackets and sport coats. Many, I have never worn; some are from the ’40s and ’50s; and some are uniforms.

Two of my influences are: Joseph Beuys and Alberto Giacometti. I have photos of both in my office. They’re the sort of characters I have in mind when I think of the Berluti man.

Instead of cologne, I wear: botanic cream with a masculine scent like wood or bergamot. The one I’m wearing came from a small shop in Florence.

If money were no object I’d buy: a painting by Alberto Burri, one from the ’60s to the ’80s that shows his color layering.

My drink of choice is: a glass of Barbaresco from La Spinetta, a family winery from the Piedmont region.

The most challenging part of a man’s wardrobe is: fit. Men who are taking care of their look always have the perfect fit. If their bodies change, they call the tailor and adjust.

backless prom dresses

You should also see:

http://szkolymuzyczne.pl/blog/50-shades-grey-premieres-berlin-dakota-johnson-wears-dior-183275