Rosie Scott Blog about Women

September has been a pretty stellar—and busy—month for designer Anna Sui: She showcased her spring 2016 collection at New York Fashion Week, opened her new store in SoHo, and launched the latest addition to her fragrance family, Romantica. Phew. Between runway shows and campaign shoots, she sat down with us to explain what it’s like to create a perfume and her biggest challenge.

What was the inspiration behind Romantica? “Every fragrance that I create is part of my world, and we’ve explored discovery and travel, all my loves of bohemia, but this time I wanted flowers. I think flowers are in almost every print that I do. My whole fantasy is to have a flower garden, and I just love arrangements, so it’s really about my love of flowers.”

How did you turn the idea into a completed fragrance? “After the concept, we start thinking about what’s going to personify it. One of the things we came up with was the whole color palette. Because of my purple-and-red environment, we thought, let’s try to find flowers in that same world. And then we started thinking about titles, which is always the hardest thing, because everything is taken. Luckily we played on the concept, so Romantica became the title. And then it’s the visual. We were so lucky to have Steven Meisel shoot, Pat [McGrath] and Garren behind the scenes, with the beautiful Ine [Neefs] as the model.”

How did you decide on the bottle design? “I love Art Nouveau, and we had such success with the packaging of the Art Nouveau from the previous fragrance that we thought, why don’t we introduce it into the bottle this time? And of course it has the inspiration of vintage bottles.”

What’s been the most surprising thing about creating fragrances? “I guess we don’t really understand that most of those beautiful vintage bottles were probably all done by hand, handblown, hand-painted. And since we don’t have those craftsmen anymore, you couldn’t capture that same feeling until technology caught up. You can get that look now, because there are all these new techniques, like laser cutting, which you probably wouldn’t have been able to do ten years ago.”

Anything coming up next? “There’s always another one. The last one, La Vie de Bohème, we followed up with La Nuit de Bohème, and that was just as successful, so I think each time we do a fragrance, we’ll take that same concept into another direction and spin it a little bit.”

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She was the designer who made accessories fun, turning Mulberry from a straight-faced heritage brand into one of LFW's hottest tickets - with presentations featuring giant glittery panthers, spiders, bags covered in badges and quirky details galore. And now Emma Hill has done it again. She officially unveiled her debut collection for her brand-new label, Hill and Friends, today in an intimate (and we mean intimate - we were sitting this close to Anna Wintour) sit-down breakfast at Claridges. The Claridges sign was replaced with a Hill and Friends sign for the day. And forget po-faced cappuccinos and artisan croissants. Oh no. This was breakfast on a - very pink - sugar high. With smiley faces and googly eyes. Oh, and mini Shetland ponies. "I love to tell a story around a collection, invite the audience into our imagination and let them share the fun!" Hill said. Well, she wasn't kidding.

Here's how Hill and Friends - The Debut went down...

Outside the entrance: Neon-pink flowers arranged into Sesame Street-worthy furry monsters - complete with googly eyes.

On the menu for breakfast: Happy breakfast biscuits - that's biscuits in the shape of bacon and fried eggs to you and me Hard-boiled eggs - with dyed fuchsia pink shells, naturally Pink breakfast yoghurt with edible eyes served in a breakfast teacup Mini bottles of pink Moet champagne Pink milk in mini milk bottles.

Yup folks, are you sensing a theme? We're definitely Thinking (neon) Pink, is the new house's signature colour.

Once we'd come down from our sugar rush and stopped trying to swing from the Claridges' chandeliers, we were entertained with:

Bellboys dressed in dark pink uniform, complete with neon pink piping and 'Hill and Friends' caps, carrying Hill's new bags in on ornate trays and stepping smartly round the room before disappearing off into a pink-walled exit.

The bags: The collection comes in six key silhouettes: The Happy Handbag, Happy Satchel, Happy Shoulder Bag, Happy Chain Bag, Happy Mini Bag and Happy Clutch. The colour palette runs from black, caramel, navy and leopard to shots of springy lilac, pale pink and bright green. The kind of chunky, oversized hardware for which we know and love Ms Hill is also present and correct - padlocks and twist locks with smiley Hill and Friends faces.

The piece de resistance

A star turn from two miniature ponies, both festooned with pink rosettes - I mean, what else? Shortly followed by Hill's adorable little boy, Hudson, smiling cheekily out from a large old-fashioned Claridges luggage trolley.

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Soccer and fashion icon David Beckham is to design a collection for Hong Kong-owned label Kent & Curwen.

Under a newly signed five-year partnership deal, Beckham - whose wife, Victoria, is an acclaimed womenswear designer - will oversee design of his collaborative line, help market the collections, and involve himself in its branding and positioning and the design of Kent & Curwen stores. The preppy British heritage label plans to open 20 stores worldwide, and remodel its stores in China, over the next three to five years.

The deal appears aimed at attracting a younger clientele to Kent & Curwen, most of whose current customers are 45 and over.

Richard Cohen, chief executive of Hong Kong-listed Trinity Limited, which signed the Beckham deal with the Global Brands Group headed by Bruce Rockowitz, said on Wednesday it was a "real partnership" as opposed to Beckham being just a paid ambassador or face of Kent & Curwen. "He will sit with me and the executive team to be involved in the future global strategy of Kent & Curwen."

The label has previously had Hong Kong actor-singer Aaron Kwok Fu-shing as an ambassador, and another ex-British soccer star, Michael Owen, starring in its advertising campaigns. Cohen said those were "all positive things at that time, but the strategy now is much more of a fashion point of view".

"I've been working on it for about nine months," he said of the Beckham deal. "We always perceived that it would be great for Kent & Curwen to have a serious kick globally, especially in China. When I found out that David was associated with Bruce (Rockowitz) and that whole team at Global Brands Group, I basically said this is what I want and let's get it done...We are an English sports brand so associating ourselves with THE fashion icon of sports is exactly what we want to do."

Trinity Limited is a listed member of the unlisted Fung Group of companies, while Global Brands Group was spun off from sourcing giant Li & Fung to hold its consumer brands.

Trinity has built up a small but powerful stable of notable men's heritage brands, from Gieves & Hawkes to Italian label Cerruti 1881, but this celebrity partnership will be the group's most high-profile to date. Landing Beckham, with his star power and reported net worth of US$350 million, is a huge coup for the brand, founded in 1926.

Trinity quoted Beckham as saying: "What I love is that Kent & Curwen has pedigree ... passed through generations of Britain's most celebrated style icons, from Laurence Olivier to Michael Caine and Mick Jagger ... Our aim is to build on its existing success in China ... and establish it as a powerful brand globally."

Asked how hard it was to convince the already wealthy Beckham to sign on, Cohen said once everyone involved got "comfortable" with what the brand is today, its clientele and vision for the future, "it was relatively smooth sailing".

Kent & Curwen's major market is China, including Hong Kong. But with Beckham's global appeal, Cohen predicts business will grow in North America, the Middle East, and Southeast Asia.

"Wherever the Chinese consumer is travelling, I want to get hold of them," he said.

The Beckham collection, which will be in stores next autumn, will be aimed at younger customers, especially those in their 30s, whereas the brand's main consumer base is currently in the 45 and over age bracket. Signing up Beckham is no doubt aimed at winning over high-spending, fashion-forward men who previously found the label too conservative.

The deal is essentially a power huddle between Trinity, Global Brands Group (where Rockowitz is chief executive and vice-chairman) and Seven Global (a joint venture between Global Brands, David Beckham and Simon Fuller). It is a sign that brand Beckham is not stopping at fashion, and will certainly expand into other lifestyle sectors. Rockowitz said: "This is just the beginning of our plans to extend the David Beckham brand, synonymous with sports, style and star power - and expanding them globally."

In December 2014 Beckham signed a worldwide licensing joint venture with Global Brands Group to create a lifestyle brand. At the time, Rockowitz called the deal, covering everything from fashion and children's wear to food and electronics, "a game-changer in sports and entertainment”.

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With a string of designer clothing lines under way, the country’s fashion industry is consistently making it to the news. Last week, Ideas by Gul Ahmed launched its ‘Digital Dreams’ collection at their outlet in Dolmen Mall, Clifton. Taking cue from global fashion and the art and aesthetics of different regions in the world, be it vibrant Oriental, or Native American designs, the range is part of the brand’s Cambric Fabric collection.

The ‘Digital Dreams’ collection features 22 new designs, with five of each available, and are priced between Rs2,700 and Rs3,700. Bashir shared how the latest collection is much more affordable for the masses as compared to what other designer labels are currently offering.

Experimenting with hues, such as orange, red, black, green, yellow and white, the collection is “surreal, floral, geometrical, whimsical, fresh and colourful,” according to the brand’s creative manager, Afzaal Akhtar. In contrast with many other collections, the line doesn’t depict femininity. It is aimed at empowering the women who wear it.

The Ideas team had been devising ways to foray into digital printing since March last year. Gul Ahmed Textile Mills executive director Ziad Bashir explained that they ventured into this late because they wanted to gauge the market strength of going digital with prints.

“The world is going digital versus rotary. It takes time for something as different as this to break the monotony,” said Bashir. “We’re so proud that we’ve launched it now. This is the best thing in the market,” he added. “Digital [prints are] the new big thing in Pakistan. We’re in the new age of digital printing. This is a piece of art. You can view the depth behind each digital outfit, which is a part of our collection,” shared Sahar Ghanchi, Ideas product head.

In terms of their future plans, the director Bashir revealed, “We’ve done it on Cambric this time but have plans of digitalising on fabrics such as crepe and silk in the near future.” Looking ahead, Akhtar pointed out three basics to keep in mind before the upcoming winter collection. For him, it’s firstly important to view the market along with keeping in mind what’s required by the bosses, and lastly, delivering what one thinks is best for the brand’s clientele.

Bashir was keen on adding that the brand has planned to introduce 15 more stores in the next couple of months. With 65 outlets in place, Ideas aims at launching 80 stores this year. Revealing the brand’s design philosophy, Bashir said Ideas by Gul Ahmed takes inspiration from the fashion exhibitions around the world. From these, “there are elements that can surprise us and excite us and we want to create something similar to them,” he explained. The brand aspires to continue bringing ideas to reality and straight from the ramp to the racks for the masses.

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Ebay is my Westfield, my diary, my time-killer, my downfall, and it’s 20 years old today. I first signed up when I was 16 years old, I had to verify using my dad’s credit card, hence every parcel I receive today still being addressed to Malcolm. I started small, with a pair of tortoiseshell cat-eye sunglasses. I still remember the way it felt when they arrived, the handwritten Jiffy bag, the pennies they cost, the sense that, if I went deep enough into this brand-new internet, somewhere around the world somebody was waiting to sell me a perfect life, only lightly soiled.

Through my eBay purchase history I can chart the story of me. The teenage searches for videos unavailable in the UK, and their subsequent disappointments, teaching me the limits of art, the thrill of the chase, and the agony of an un-budgeted-for £6 tax at the post office. The attempts to track down a very specific piece of Chanel costume jewellery, followed by my boyfriend’s presentation, on my birthday, of a delicate replica of the bracelet he had made himself, the realisation of “shit, this is serious”. And then, throughout my 20s, the vintage dresses, the weight of which, if laid end to end, would reach all the way back to 1930.

It’s here that eBay stopped working for me, and I started working for eBay. As vintage shops died around us, I began buying all my clothes from sellers in Canada and LA. But, just as often as a perfect dress would arrive, another wouldn’t stretch over my hips, or would smell like fresh death. So off I went, back to eBay, where I’d relist the 60s “wiggle dress”, or 40s “landgirl smock” (these descriptions live only in the fashion-less world of the online seller; it’s frightening how quickly you assimilate) and end up not only poorer, but more naked than before.

Ebay gave me moths. Ebay gave me style. Ebay gave me an unasked-for insight into the way women sweat. And in my purchase history, in amongst the dresses – the navy crepe Ossie Clarke I spilt an egg down, the black sweater that makes my tits look like battleships, the Moschino that inspired a Marie Kondo wardrobe purge – are the small crystals of adulthood that prove I made it to my thirties.

Here is the Peter Hvidt sofa we hauled with us when we moved to the suburbs, and the cardboard packing boxes that were a mistake to buy. Here is the teak extending table, for aspirational dinner parties in very small rooms. Here are the 1950s bookshelves, here is the Portuguese pottery that arrives ready-cracked. Here is the copy of The Paperbag Princess I bought for our goddaughter, which, when it arrived in Ramsgate turned out to be the size of a postage stamp. They didn’t tell me that. And here, in 2014 and varying shades of love and pain, are the baby Osh Kosh dungarees, the miniature cowboy costume, the black Baby Bjorn, the Ameda breast pump. A tea-set in the shape of sweetcorn I accidentally buy-it-now-ed at 4am, nursing and mad. It sits on top of the computer, a warning.

If eBay is 20, then I, I am old. But, scrolling back through my purchases, I see I’ve used my time living well. Even though they’ve been tested by previous owners, buying old things hasn’t made me grow up. But it has helped.

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When Chavie Lieber, a writer in New York, was traveling over a recent weekend, she and her husband lent their apartment to a friend’s brother. Upon return, “There were three fat joints rolled for us on the coffee table,” Lieber told me, “with a scribbled note that read: ‘Thanks for letting us stay.’ ”

After moving to a new home in Connecticut, Liza, a marketing executive who spoke on the condition of anonymity, received a small satchel of weed as a housewarming gift from friends, making for “a really mellow” evening in her new home. “I will always appreciate a bottle of wine, but weed is king,” Liza said. “It’s expensive, hard to get, and weed these days is so customized, meaning someone bought Bubba Kush versus Purple Haze, for instance, keeping your tastes in mind.”

And after the sudden death of her mother, Taylor, a creative consultant in New York who also requested anonymity, cherished a condolence present of marijuana and a glass pipe from a cousin. “It was one of the things that helped me be able to eat again,” she said.

As the legalization of marijuana spreads across the country, so too is ganja gifting. With 23 states and Washington, D.C. now allowing for the medicinal use of pot and another four allowing for its recreational use—and with eighteen more expected to follow suit by 2020—people evidently feel emboldened not only to experiment with marijuana as they would a bottle of wine, but also to tie a bow around it. Even in states where marijuana remains illegal, it seems, the social stigma around weed is going up in smoke.

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The result? A new wave of marijuana birthday cakes, hash hostess gifts, and herbal get-well goodies. Lieber says she was overjoyed yet surprised to see the green thank-you gift in her living room in lieu of the standard flowers or pastries. “I think my initial reaction was, ‘Wow, times have really changed.’ ”

“I give cookies to people post-medical procedures,” said another woman I spoke with, whom I’ll call Carly, a project manager in New York. “It’s the natural alternative to often coma-inducing pain meds.” A few $10 pot cookies, purchased from a dealer, were the ideal gift for a coworker recovering from nasal surgery: “He couldn’t smoke and didn’t want to be a zombie, so he appreciated a few nicely packaged edibles to get him through.”

Edibles like pot brownies, chocolate, and gummy bears (sugar-free are available for the health conscious) are among the most popular gifts at Silverpeak Apothecary, a luxe dispensary in Aspen, Colorado, located mere steps from Gucci and Prada. They make ideal gifts, explained Mike Woods, its chief operating officer, because they’re inconspicuous compared with traditional marijuana “flowers,” and they don’t involve paraphernalia or coughing. Silverpeak even suggests special gifts on its website.

“People come in who are going to dinner with a group or staying at someone’s home, and instead of buying a bottle of wine, or in addition to, they’re looking for some nice products,” Woods explained. Sleek vaporizers by Pax (a company that employs former Apple designers, Woods said), prepacked with artisanal, locally grown marijuana, are popular birthday and host gifts for the Aspen social set. “The more people get exposed to cannabis and the more it becomes a part of the cultural setting, the more they pay attention to these products,” said Woods. (One New York publicist I spoke with told me that, at a surprise birthday celebration for a friend in Denver, gummy marijuana edibles were given as party favors.)

The marijuana gifting trend is in part borne of necessity: Allen St. Pierre, the executive director at NORML (the National Organization for the Reform of Marijuana Laws), is legally growing “amazingly large” cannabis plants in his Washington, D.C., home that will produce pounds of marijuana. But he and his wife will be forced to give away the lion’s share of their harvest, because while they’re legally permitted to grow six to twelve plants, they’re allowed to possess only two ounces.

“This year for Hanukkah and for Christmas, I am going to be giving people legal ounces of marijuana,” St. Pierre told me. “Maybe my postman, when he comes, I’ll say, ‘Here’s your end-of-the-year gift,’ and hand him an ounce.” St. Pierre says that “farmer’s pride” is also fueling the practice of weed gifting, not unlike canning and pickling hobbyists giving their bounties away to friends and neighbors. “It’s a spirit of, ‘Try my tomato, try my asparagus,’ ” St. Pierre said. “Try my marijuana.”

In D.C. especially, marijuana gifts are prized more than any organic heirloom tomato. Because retail dispensaries are illegal, supply is harder to come by, so “gifting somebody a little bit of marijuana is like handing them a substantial amount of money,” explained St. Pierre. He estimates that gifting an ounce in the D.C. area is equivalent to handing a friend (or postal worker) between $250 and $400.

And in some cases, hash is replacing cash. “My husband just traded weed for babysitting,” shared Johanna, a restaurant manager in Virginia, who added that the babysitter is a friend who doesn’t smoke on the job. People also leave chocolates or cookies as tips at the tapas restaurant where she works, Johanna said, especially “when they know their server appreciates it as much as money.” One acquaintance told me via email that her fiancé has “tipped his Uber driver with a ‘nug.’ ” Another said she has arranged a barter system with her handyman, paying him in marijuana.

Of course, etiquette is a consideration, and, for now, there is no Emily Post chapter on ganja gifts. St. Pierre says he gives only to those whose “proclivities” are known to him. At Silverpeak, where the customer service rivals that of the designer boutiques nearby, gift-givers take into account not only the recipient’s habits, but their specific tastes as well, Woods said. For occasional, recreational users, a pre-dosed edible is convenient; for the more initiated, a refined weed flower might be chosen, with attention paid to the exact effect the recipient may be seeking. “If it’s, ‘I want to laugh,’ we will direct them toward a sativa [strain]. If it’s, ‘I just want to kick back and relax,’ we would steer them toward an indica blend,” Woods explained.

Though it may seem unsavory to some—and in certain states could lead to 180 days in jail—marijuana gifting is not without deep emotional resonance. For Taylor, the marijuana gift following her mother’s death, accompanied by a heartfelt note from her cousin about how much he, too, had loved her mom, felt thoughtful and sincere. “It was just him to me, not the whole family,” she recalled. “[Marijuana] was something that is a part of his life that he felt he could share to help me get through the worst time in mine.” She still has the pipe.

Pot proved a precious gift for St. Pierre’s 67-year-old mother, who had dabbled in “proverbial Alice B. Toklas brownies” in her lifetime, but whom St. Pierre described as “an incredibly serious, pretty stoic person.” After she hinted that she was interested in edibles, St. Pierre dropped a bunch of marijuana suckers into her candy drawer during a recent visit to see her on Cape Cod. “A little marijuana candy made her act, frankly, like I hadn’t seen in decades,” he said. “She just couldn’t have been any happier.”

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Bollywood actor Sonalli Sehgal of “Pyaar Ka Punchnama” fame will be the showstopper of ace fashion designer Manoviraj Khosla’s show in the upcoming Bengal Fashion Week.

Sonalli, busy with promotions for “Pyaar Ki Punchnama 2” and “The Wedding Pullav”, said it was comfortable for her to be draped with a Manoviraj outfit as she feels he conjures beautiful embroidered dresses for his models.

“I wore a gown stitched by Manoviraj last year and I felt like a princess flaunting the creator’s bright coloured robes. Can’t reveal my outfit this time,” Sonalli told PTI.

The actress is the face of second KF Ultra Bengal Fashion Week, which will be held this weekend.

The actor, who will be playing a call centre girl in “Pyaar Ka Punchnama” sequel, said “I play a normal girl who loves to dress up. These days the chunk of the audiences are in 15-35 year age group and they are smart. So the young new age directors are coming up with subjects which can strike the chord.”

While “Pyaar Ka Punchnama 2” is directed by Luv Ranjan, “Wedding Pulav” is helmed by Binod Pradhan with Rishi Kapoor, Satish Kaushik among others in the lead.

Besides Manoviraj, the Bengal fashion Week will showcase creations of names like Jattinn Kocchar, Sharbari Dutta, Abhishek Dutta, Agnimitra Paul and Sanjana John.

The show will have models Shonal Rawat, Priyanka Shah, Natasha Suri, Ushoshi Sengupta will be flaunting the outfits designed by ace designers.

Arijit Dutta, actor and owner of Priya Entertainments, will be the male face of the premier fashion show.

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In French, a water tower is a château d’eau. Even those claiming they can’t speak a word of French could figure out that the literal translation in English is “water castle.” Which suddenly makes you rethink the countless elevated tanks dotting the Brooklyn skyline, non?

Stroll around Le Bon Marché from today until mid-October and you will find water castle re-creations staged like a Broadway set, their spindly legs marrying seamlessly with the store’s original ironwork architecture. Complimentary shopping bags—never mind the limited-edition coffee mugs, totes, pochettes, and notebooks—boast a lively motif featuring the Brooklyn Bridge, a row of water castles and scribbled text, à la Basquiat. Water castle–shaped labels accompany wedges of apple crumble in La Grande Épicerie, Le Bon Marché’s adjacent gourmet food hall.

Welcome to Brooklyn Rive Gauche, where brownstone meets limestone, and Bushwick meets Left Bank.

Each year, Le Bon Marché, arguably the most tasteful of department stores in Paris, debuts temporary programming inspired by a destination. Last year took customers to Japan, preceded by Brazil in 2013. London and Los Angeles have been spotlighted as well—just in case you were concerned the store had inflated the borough to city-state status.

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Products across all categories—fashion, accessories, beauty, decor, and food—are carefully selected and carried for a limited time. Areas of the store have been demarcated with screen-printed brickwork and animated with a barber, coffee counter, and flower bar. Kids can participate in brownie-baking sessions, while parents can make an appointment with famous tattoo artist Scott Campbell (on site until September 9).

When a communications director referred to the store’s transformation by turning Brooklyn into a French verb, as in Brooklyniser (BROOK-lin-EE-SAY), you get a sense of the team’s immersion.

Le Bon Marché’s director of the style office, Jennifer Cuvillier, explained that the team had initially considered all of New York City before realizing that “Brooklyn was strong and different enough by itself to tell us a story.”

If the project has been undertaken on an impressive experiential scale, it also marks the evolving infatuation between Paris and the Big Apple. On the one hand, we now live in a world where kale chips and macarons are traded across the Atlantic like kids swapping lunchbox snacks. Le Bon Marché is hoping customers take to Fishs Eddy colored Mason jars the same way New Yorkers head to ABC Carpet & Home for Astier de Villatte.

(Okay, so Fishs Eddy is technically located in Manhattan, as are fashion brands Harvey Faircloth and Save Khaki United. Cuvillier noted a certain flexibility to the criteria—that if the brand wasn’t Brooklyn-based, it needed to capture the spirit.) In fashion terms, she says, “People want to be themselves; they don’t always want to be directional. And it’s easy to get this style, yet it’s also cool.”

Before joining Vogue as Beauty Director this summer, longtime Brooklyn resident Celia Ellenberg acted as a consultant on the project. In addition to proposing and vetting potential brands, she took buyers to Coney Island for hot dogs and into the deep stretches of Ridgewood for studio visits. When we spoke, she had yet to see the mise-en-scène but she echoed Cuvillier as far as the zeitgeist-y appeal. “The spirit is exportable and inspiring to people. That’s the coolest part. And a lot of it isn’t that complicated; it’s just stuff you wouldn’t have thought about doing.”

To be sure, the Brooklyn codes have been percolating for some time. Paris may not have a Keith McNally counterpart to replicate the brasserie template, but restaurants that have opened within the past year typically borrow from the industrial-minimalist-reclaimed trifecta of aesthetic elements.

Not long after I arrived four years ago, kale became available after a decades-long absence (farmers stopped growing it for human consumption because it was associated with wartime). When a healthy lunch chain began offering it for custom salads, with staff wearing promotional “I heart kale” buttons, customers would ask, “Who is kale?” Two months ago, my Parisian pal showed up to brunch (and yes, the Sunday ritual has become as polarizing here, too) wearing the ubiquitous Yale-style Kale sweatshirt with her Stan Smiths. Kale chips, for sale in the store alongside Saint Ash of Brooklyn mittens, have been available in Le Bon Marché for a while now. Meanwhile, an expat friend marveled that when Jay Z and Kanye West came for their Watch the Throne tour, she saw more Brooklyn caps and jerseys than she’d ever seen during her fifteen years in Williamsburg and Carroll Gardens.

But you could also view Brooklyn Rive Gauche as an acknowledgement that for all the fetishizing, there is legitimate common ground between both locales, namely, the emphasis on artisanal values and craftsmanship. In Paris, they are associated with tradition and luxury; in Brooklyn, entrepreneurship. Yet the appreciation seems on par.

Cuvillier, however, suggests that her reconnaissance shed new light on familiar—and authentic—tropes. Paris has been home to outdoors farmers’ markets and handsome bearded dudes well before they became trendy; yet she observed differences in merchandising and a palpable community spirit that she was eager to convey within the store’s walls.

“There, it’s a philosophy,” she says. “It’s modernity mixed with the local spirit and it’s a global message. It’s about taking account of what is important and taking time to develop these ideas and products. And for the future, that’s more and more important.”

As for the knee-jerk reaction to groan over hipster globalization (expats have already begun posting pictures to Instagram with predictably sarcastic hashtags), there is something instinctively eye roll–inducing to any exercise involving cultural appropriation. Not to mention the valid criticism that authenticity can get lost in translation. A video installation of a virtual rollercoaster ride through Brooklyn by Dawid Tomaszewski with audio by electronic music duo Polo & Pan can be watched from a neon-hued Luxembourg chair. There’s neither garden gravel nor Bed Stuy grit. But then, that’s not why people go to Le Bon Marché; they go because the environment is invariably elevated whether furnished with water castles or ready-to-wear.

Ellenberg says she sympathizes with the push-back—to a point. “To travel all the way to Paris or even Tokyo and see a carbon copy of someone on Bedford Avenue is funny and weird and a small bummer, but also kind of cool because the culture has reached that level.” And anyway, as she points out, mainstream visibility for those creating in the hood she’s called home for the past fifteen years is not a bad thing. “People with small businesses have worked hard and now their designs are being opened up to a whole new world of opportunity.”

While certain products were stocked before the exhibition (see: Reese’s peanut butter spread, a questionable comestible no matter the occasion), others may find a permanent place on Le Bon Marché’s shelves. Cuvillier expects the Lynn and Lawrence alpaca beanies to perform well, for example. In French, they’re called bonnets.

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